I had a big problem with tearout when I was fielding the panels for the doors. There were a few panels with sections of sappy, knotty bits that just wouldnt plane nicely and left a really rough surface.
For those I just took a little putty and smoothed out the bad parts.
A few of the joints also had some unsightly gaps which required wood filler:
Soon I had finished constructed the necessary five doors:
Then it was off to the sander:
This setup is great: Ive got the Shop Vac hooked up the sander, but Ive also got a switch from Sears that turns the vacuum on automatically when I turn on the sander. Having the hoses and wires hanging from the ceiling also makes sanding a lot easier.
One last touch on the doors was a little ogee around the perimeter:
Looks nice, right?
Well, I certainly screwed up one of them pretty bad: whats wrong here?
Yep, I routed the ogee on the wrong side of the door...time for some surgery.
First I had to cut the screwed-up piece off:
Thats my new saw in the foreground. Its a Bridge City Tool Works Kataba Meiko. It has an unusual tooth pattern that lets it make crosscuts extremely fast. I got it on sale and am really pleased with it. Yeah, I said I was getting achoice from Japanese saws...oh well.
Then I had to clean up the saw cuts so that the new frame member would seat correctly; for this I used a shooting board. I dont think Ive demonstrated this before on the blog, but the shooting board is extremely useful:
Essentially, the shooting board lets you use a bench plane to trim ends very precisely and accurately. It holds the piece at 90 degrees to the path of the plane. Here Im using it to clean up the saw cut so that the new frame member will seat squarely.
I suppose I could have gone to a lot of trouble and created loose tenon joints for the repair, but that would have been a ton of trouble (unless someone wants to buy me a Festool Domino...Any takers? Anyone?)
So I ended up using the old through-dowel method. It gets the job done:
Paint em and done:
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